Not just culinary technique but spirit of geography rewarded

EBRU ERKE

The 2025 edition of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list has been unveiled — and I was on hand for the ceremony in Turin, Italy. It became clear across the events and speeches that this year’s accolades honored not only restaurants but also the ideas they embody and the cultural and geographical transformations they represent. Topping the list for 2025 was Peru’s Maido, while Türkiye was represented solely by Neolokal.

What makes a restaurant the best in the world? Is it culinary technique, the boldness of a dish, or the heartbeat of the story behind it? Each year, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants chases that question. This year, one prominent theme emerged: when excellence in dining intersects with identity, geography and cultural depth, true recognition follows.

Unsurprisingly, Peru’s Maido took the top spot. Both Maido and Central in Lima firmly established Latin America not as a temporary rise but as a durable, new gastronomic center. Central’s chef Virgilio Martínez works not only with ingredients, but with memory — cataloging hundreds of indigenous potato varieties and other native elements, resurrecting their narratives. Maido, on the other hand, harnesses the country’s demographic makeup to reinterpret Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei cuisine — born of Japanese immigrants at the end of the 19th century adapting their homeland traditions to Peruvian produce. Its signature dishes, ceviche and tiradito, reflect the cuisine’s transformative power. This year’s list proves that The World’s 50 Best celebrates not just kitchen craft, but the spirit of its place.

Another highlight at the ceremony was Thailand’s meteoric ascent. With six Bangkok-based restaurants in the top 50—the most alongside Italy — this surge is impossible to ignore. Following Thailand, Peru, Spain, France and Japan each placed four entries. Rekindling Bangkok’s spotlight, Gaggan Anand — now back in the top ten after years — led the way, joined by Potong, Sorn, Sühring, Le Du and Nusara. Notably, the “World’s Best Female Chef” award also went to someone from Bangkok — Chef Pam (Pichaya Soontornyanakij), whose presence at a shoot I conducted in Bangkok two weeks ago was profoundly moving. This moment confirms that Thailand is no longer just a land of spice and street food; it’s becoming a sophisticated canvas where tradition and modernity converge.

Another standout moment was the “One to Watch” award being given to Khufu’s in Cairo — a strong signal that the Middle East is on the rise in global gastronomy. With Dubai’s Orfali Brothers and Tresind Studio also making the top 50, the region is making waves.

The gala’s opening cocktail surprised many, as small busts of each of the fifty chefs were displayed—a sweet and unexpected homage. The awards night resembled a parade of culinary legends. At the after-party, Massimo Bottura’s renowned tortellini was served, and excited chefs jumped into the DJ booth. What I love about 50 Best gatherings is that they are more than glamour and awards; in the two days leading up to the event, chefs engage in inspiring conversations and deep exchanges.

A striking trend: chefs now speak more like philosophers and thinkers. One standout interview was with Bruno Verjus — whom I later met in Paris. Though he dropped from 3rd to 8th place this year, he remains in the top 10. Bruno explained how he rebuilds his menu every day around the day’s deliveries and how entering the culinary field at 50 allowed him to break free and craft more autonomous artistry. His defining line: “Food must be defended, not explained.”

Similarly, Dominique Crenn reminded us that “behind a dish there is not just technique, but heart and history.” Virgilio Martínez emphasized that a chef’s responsibility is to manifest the connections between food, nature, culture and land — a mission underpinned by his Mater Iniciativa project with scientists, farmers and anthropologists. Jeremy Chan of Ikoyi — the year’s most significant climber — asserted that flavors deliver not just taste, but ideas.

Once again, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 confirms that gastronomy today speaks in the language of conviction as much as technique. The list tells us not only which chefs are “the best,” but also which ideas, stories and voices are rising to the surface. Among the top 100, Türkiye was represented only by Neolokal. Representing our cuisine abroad, Erim and Maksut are shining examples — their dedication and achievements deserve celebration, and I sincerely hope their work signals a time when our national culinary voice will resonate more loudly on the global stage.