Zeffirino brings Genoese flair to Bosphorus

EBRU ERKE

The advent of world brands in Istanbul goes beyond simply opening new branches in the city. It signifies something deeper — when a city hosts outstanding international cuisines, it shows confidence not only in its own culinary heritage but also in its openness to others. A city that embraces not just its own recipes but also welcomes and understands those from different cultures is showing true maturity in terms of being a gastronomy city, much like London or New York.

For these reasons, I place significant value on the success of international restaurant brands entering Istanbul. Zeffirino, located in Ortaköy by the sea (the original site of Zuma), was founded 86 years ago by the Belloni family in Genoa, Italy. Zeffirino Istanbul is their third branch outside Italy, following Monte Carlo and Paris. It was Barış Erdoğdu, known for his numerous ventures and investments in the tourism and food and beverage sectors, who persuaded the Belloni family to bring Zeffirino to Istanbul. Barış Erdoğdu, Chairman of Root Hotels and Root Karaköy, is also recognized for founding Mitte Restaurant and co-founding Foxy.

In a good Italian restaurant, what matters is the quality of the ingredients, not the menu. This is because in Italian cuisine, the ingredients, rather than the recipes, carry the essence of the dish. The simplicity of the cuisine is inherent, and the cooking methods are designed to highlight the natural flavors rather than cover them up. A well-made Italian dish showcases the rich sweetness of tomatoes, the slight bitterness of olive oil that lingers in the throat, or the firmness of pasta dough. Zeffirino excels in meeting these standards.

The highlight of the menu is undoubtedly the freshly made pasta, available in a variety of shapes and paired with different sauces — options like pappardelle with ragu or tagliolini with sand mussels and bottarga stand out. Still, my top pick would be any of the pesto-based dishes. Why? Because it’s only fitting that an Italian restaurant with roots in Genoa would take pride in its pesto — and in Zeffirino’s case, the pesto is actually made in Genoa. But don’t think of pesto as just another Italian sauce. A truly great pesto demands precision and quality ingredients: Fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan (or Pecorino) and olive oil. The source of each ingredient matters immensely. For basil, they use the kind grown on the Ligurian coast, known for its gentle aroma and slightly sweet flavor. Only Mediterranean pine nuts make the cut — richer in oil and taste, compared to their Chinese counterparts. The olive oil comes from fruity varieties found in the Ligurian region, where Genoa is located, and the cheese is a mix of Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano. The garlic is chosen for its round body and mellow flavor, not an overpowering bite. And most importantly, pesto is traditionally made — crushed in a marble mortar, never blended in a food processor.

Sole Meunière, a dish that’s often mishandled in many restaurants, is executed perfectly here — from the rich sauce to the beautifully browned butter. The veal saltimbocca, wrapped in veal prosciutto, stands out as a particularly impressive meat option. The dessert menu is also quite satisfying, featuring treats like torta gianduia — a chocolate pie with hazelnut cream that I absolutely loved — and a traditional grandmother-style tart filled with pastry cream infused with lemon zest. Welcome to our city, Zeffirino. And just a heads-up: I would like to share the exciting news that Zeffirino’s sister restaurant, Beefbar — a favorite in places like Paris, Mykonos and New York — will be opening here soon.