Food critic’s praise for İzmit simit ignites regional rivalry

ISTANBUL

Renowned food critic Vedat Milor has ignited a public debate after declaring on social media that, in his view, the most delicious version of simit — the sesame-crusted bread beloved across Türkiye — comes from the northwestern province of Kocaeli’s İzmit district and is best when baked in a traditional wood-fired oven.

His comment, posted with the caveat that no other city should take offense, triggered a wave of responses.

“No offense to other cities but the best simit in Türkiye is the İzmit simit baked in a wood-fire oven,” Milor wrote.

Celebrity chef Ebru Baybara Demir countered Milor’s claim, insisting, “The best simit is in Ankara. Its consistency is unique — always crunchy on the outside, and the molasses flavor is pronounced.” Her defense of Ankara’s simit quickly gained support from fans of the capital’s darker, denser variety.

Check Aydın Demir also weighed in. “For me, the best is İzmir gevreği, followed by Istanbul’s sesame simit baked in ‘karafırın,’ [a traditional stone oven]. Ankara comes third. A proper simit should be thin, crisp on the outside, soft inside and baked in a stone oven.”

Sait Karabağ, the head of the Turkish Restaurateurs and Confectioners Federation, emphasized regional variation: “The taste of the simit depends on local traditions.”

Key factors include flour quality, sesame, dough resting and baking method.

“Ideally, simit should use heirloom wheat and local sesame,” Karabağ said. “Unfortunately, some use Chinese sesame, which lacks flavor. Geographic indication registration could help standardize quality.”

Highlighting the subjectivity of the debate, food columnist Zeynep Kakınç said, “Street food like simit is tied to personal taste and memory. İzmit’s simit may stand out for Milor, but that does not dimish others.”